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The Green Lane
Photo : Red Head. Canards Illimités.
Last updated : January 10, 2002
 
The Green Solutions 
Lawn Care
Roses and Other Flowers
Healthy Trees and Shrubs

Insect and Animal Pests

Lawn Disorders

Often people buy pesticides when they see yellow patches, insects or weeds on their lawns - usually when the infestation is well under way. This common reaction is generally due to a lack of information. Yellow patches of grass are a worrisome problem for all homeowners, and there are a number of possible causes: insects, chemical or gasoline spills, dog urine, disease, close cutting or poor lawn maintenance, or some of the grass may died over the winter. Yellow patches also occur when the grass becomes dormant during hot weather.

To find the right solution, it is often necessary to use deductive reasoning. No one knows the condition of your lawn better than you do. A daily inspection of the lawn will help you nip any problems in the bud, so you will not have to use pesticides to fight infestations at a late stage when they are more serious. Simply spraying the lawn with soapy water at the right time can protect it from hungry insects. Is the air circulation good? Is your lawn well fertilized? Did you dethatch last fall and do you aerate the soil regularly? If you need advice, you can seek a specialist's help in identifying the source of the problem, but it is up to you to decide what method of control to use.

 
Dead grass

 

On a lawn that has been weakened by a hard winter, fairly extensive brown patches will appear in the spring. These areas must be reseeded. To prevent a recurrence, do not apply nitrogen fertilizer in the fall, avoid walking on the lawn when it is frozen and has no snow cover, and water less frequently in summer. In the fall, you should water the grass enough to make it green again because green foliage is a sign that the lawn is ready for winter.

 
Insects

Image : Grub
Grub

Image : Grub
Grub

 

 

Grubs

Beetle grubs (larvae) eat grass roots. If your lawn has yellow patches, try pulling the grass up in those areas. If it lifts up like a carpet, grubs may have severed the roots of the grass. If you see birds pecking away on your lawn, a skunk digging, or groundhogs burrowing, check for white grubs before chasing the animals away. To controI grubs, spread a mixture of diatomaceous earth and soap powder at a rate of 6 to 9 kg per 100 m2, or a tablespoonful of pyrethrum dissolved in 4 L of water, up to four times a year. A high-potassium fertilizer, such as seaweed, may be applied in fall to help the lawn resist the cold. In addition, beetles like to lay their eggs in compacted soil, so aerating is important.



Image : Sob Webworm
Sob Webworm
 
Sod webworms


If you see a lot of white moths flitting over your lawn in the spring, they are probably adult webworms that are ready to lay their eggs. The caterpillars (webworms) chew grass off at the base of the stems. In early May, you will notice small yellow patches of lawn, which will grow larger through the summer. Webworms hide in their tunnels during the day, but you can spot them at night by shining a flashlight, or you can pour soapy water on the lawn to bring them to the surface. Birds on the lawn may also be a sign that sod webworms are present. Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt) is effective for controlling webworms, so when you see the moths, wait two weeks and then apply Bt. Repeat this application the following spring. You can try using soapy water: apply 25 mL of pure liquid detergent or 50 g of hand soap per 4 L of water once a week for a few weeks. Palm-oil soap is not effective. Another mixture you can try is garlic juice and 4 mL of rubbing alcohol in 4 L of water. Spreading wood ash, lime or rye flour on the caterpillars will smother them. Webworms like thatch, so it is important to remove thatch and to aerate the soil. Be sure to reseed any bare spots.


Image : Chinch Bug
Chinch Bug
 
Chinch Bug

Chinch bugs suck the sap from turf grasses, causing yellow patches that grow larger through the summer. The adult bugs overwinter in hedges, shrubs, roadside areas and near houses. Chinch bugs are quick to move into poorly tended lawns with compacted soil and thatch. To spot them, all you need to do is remove both ends of a tin can, push it into the ground and fill it with water. The chinch bugs will float to the surface. The larvae chew grass at the base of the stems, weakening the lawn and causing the most severely affected areas to die during hot spells. The symptoms are similar to those of drought. For a severe infestation, the first step in treatment is using a chemical insecticide. Once you have halted the infestation, you can use ecological methods for prevention purposes.

If you see chinch bugs in the spring, you can apply rotenone, diatomaceous earth or pyrethrum. Another way to get rid of these pests is to spray with soapy water once a day for 10 to 14 days, or with a handful of wood ash and lime dissolved in 8 L of water. Spread a flannel sheet over the treated area, and wait 15 to 20 minutes: the bugs will be clinging to the sheet and you will be able to drown them in a bucket of soapy water or suck with a vacuum cleaner. Good lawn care is also important for reducing the insect population to an acceptable level. Fertilizing the lawn in the spring and fall, and proper watering - in the morning rather than the evening - favours the growth of grass and discourages insects. In addition, dethatching in September robs insects of potential habitats.

Image : Click Beetle
Click Beetle

Image : Wireworm
Wireworm

 
Wireworms and Click Beetles


The wireworm is the larva of the click beetle. Wireworms live in the soil and feed on roots, severing them at ground level. They thrive in poorly drained, moist compacted soil. The female beetles lay their eggs in May and June, and that is the best time to get rid of this pest. Use the same treatment as for grubs, and remember to aerate the soil.

Earthworms

Earthworms aerate the soil and so should not be destroyed. In September, earthworms come to surface briefly to breed. If you see their castings in the summer, it is probably a sign that the grass is too short or that there is organic matter on the lawn that has not decomposed properly. The recommended cutting height for lawns is 7 cm. As a last resort, you can use sulphur or diatomaceous earth to reduce the earthworm population.

Weed controls

The presence of weeds is often a sign of fertilization or lawn care problems. Before applying a treatment, find out whether this is necessary. Cutting the grass too short favours the development of weeds.

Image: Thistle
Thistle
 
Thistle,
plantain and dandelions must be hand pulled by cutting the roots in the ground because mowing does not eliminate them completely. Lamb's quarter and barnyard grass disappear if the lawn is mowed regularly to 7 cm. Mallow, pursiane and foxtail are found in new lawns, but they disappear as the grass becomes thick and healthy.
Soil Conditions
Acid soil
Remarks
Add lime in fall.
 
Common Names

Image : Cinquefoil, Dandelion, Sheep Sorrel, Wild Strawberry
Cinquefoil, Dandelion, Sheep Sorrel, Wild Strawberry

Soil Conditions
Poorly drained, oversatered or shady soil
Remarks
Pruning trees, aerating the soil and letting it dry out between waterings are ways of controlling these plants.
 
Common Names

Image : Fern, Mint, Plantain, Squirrel Grass, Yellow Nutsedge, Speedwell
Fern, Mint, Plantain, Squirrel Grass, Yellow Nutsedge, Speedwell

Soil Conditions
Soil low in humus and nitrogen
Remarks
Manure and natural fertilizer (fish meal) mixed with vinegar (ratio of 1:1) and applied in spring may be effective.

Crabgrass roots should be hand pulled to prevent rapid spreading.
 
Common Names

Image : Clover, Milfoil, Hawkweed, Spurge, Crabgrass
Clover, Milfoil, Hawkweed, Spurge, Crabgrass

Soil Conditions
Clayey soil
Remarks
Spike the area and fill the holes with sand and organic matter at a rate of 3 kg/100m2 each year. Rake the surface to level it. Repeat each fall for two to three years.
 
Common Names

Image : Selfheal, Wild Onion or Garlic
Selfheal, Wild Onion or Garlic

Soil Conditions
Compacted soil
Remarks
Adding sand and peat moss may improve the soil structure

Spike the area to aerate and loosen the soil.
 
Common Names

Image : Daisy, Bindweed, Knot weed, Wood Sorrel
Daisy, Bindweed, Knot weed, Wood Sorrel

Soil Conditions
Shady soil
Remarks
Trim trees.
 
Common Names

Image: Wild Vine
Wild Vine

Image : Lamb's Quarter
Lamb's Quarter

Image : Barnyard Grass
Barnyard Grass

Image : Mallow
Mallow

Image : Purslane
Purslane

Image : Mushroom
Mushroom

 
 
Lawn diseases

Diseases, such as mildew and dollar spot, usually develop when a lawn is neglected. Strong soil acidity, poor drainage, overwatering, overcutting, nitrogen imbalances, shade caused by tree cover, thatch, and insufficient aeration are all factors that favour disease. To remedy these problems, avoid watering in the evening, let the grass dry out between waterings, cut off a few tree branches, and have a soil test done to determine your lawn's fertilizer needs. Always remove grass clippings if your lawn shows any signs of disease. Planting a mixture of grasses reduces the risk of serious infection since each grass variety is vulnerable to different diseases.

Since diagnosing lawn diseases can be difficult, you may need a specialist's help to pinpoint the problem. By monitoring your lawn more carefully during cool, damp weather, you may be able to halt the spread of disease in time. A few of the fungus diseases that affect lawns are described below.

 
Fungus diseases

 

Mushrooms are caused primarily by decaying wood in the soil, and they will soon disappear if picked or raked. Rust affects lawns that are poorly maintained and cut too short, and forms red-orange powdery pustules on the undersides of grass blades.

Mildew shows as grey powdery growth on shady areas of the lawn, and occurs in cool weather. To control mildew, cut off a few tree branches to provide more light and air. Snow mould develops when the snow lingers too long in the spring; it appears as white patches of dead grass. In the spring, remove snow from shady areas if it is not melting quickly. Do not apply nitrogen fertilizer in fall, and cut the grass to a height of 4 cm before winter. Dollar spot forms gold-coloured circular patches the size of a quarter on lawns; they appear during wet weather in the spring and fall. The fungus attacks heavily thatched, moist lawns. You should correct the nutrient levels, dethatch, and water in the morning, letting the grass dry out during the dry.

Fairy rings may develop in lawns that are five years old or older. The fungi create circular patches of dead grass with an outer ring of dark green grass. Fairy rings are difficult to eradicate. To control the disease, spike the rings to a depth of 15 cm with a spading fork. Clean the fork carefully with rubbing alcohol after each use. To avoid contaminating the rest of the lawn, you must begin spiking outside the green ring and work inward toward the yellow area. Pour soapy water into the holes daily for a week, and then clean water every day for two months. To get rid of the rings completely, remove the soil to a depth of 25 cm and 45 cm on either side of the green ring. This is an exacting task but it is the only way to eradicate the fungi. Be careful not to drop any contaminated soil or grass on the lawn, or the disease may spread elsewhere.

 
Good lawn care is the key to success

 

Good lawn care limits insect attacks, disease and even weeds. To keep your lawn healthy, cut the grass to a height of 7 cm, fertilize adequately with nitrogen, dethatch in fall, aerate the soil in spring and fall, water thoroughly but infrequently in summer, improve and renew the soil, and prune your trees. In addition, by spraying the lawn with soapy water at the right time, you can control grubs and other larvae.

 
Suggested reading

Alex, JF and CM Switzer. 1985. Ontario Weeds. Agdex 640. Publication 505. Toronto: Ontario
Ministry of Agriculture and Food. 200 p.

Schultz, Warren. 1989. The chemical-free lawn. Rodale Press. Pennsylvanie, U.S.A. 194 p.

Smith Miranda and Carr Anna. 1988. Garden insect, disease and weed identification guide. Rodale Press. Pennsylvanie, U.S.A. 328 p.

Collaborators : Sylvie Deslauriers, agronomist. Département de santé communautaire de Lanaudière

Fore more informations contact :
Environment Canada
Inquiry Centre
105 McGill Street, 2nd Floor
Montréal QC
H2Y 2E7
(514) 496-6851
1-800-463-4311

Published by Authority of the Minister of the Environment

© Minister of Supply and Services Canada 1991
Cat. No. EN 40-206/5-1991E
ISBN 0-662-18785-7

 

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